But here we are, folks, in the great state of Ohio, where the corn is high, the football is serious, and apparently, the seafood game is strong enough to make coastal dwellers do a double-take.

You can choose from a variety of sea creatures – lobster, crab legs, shrimp, clams, mussels – and they’ll all arrive at your table in a glorious, steaming heap. It’s like a game of delicious Jenga, ...