Ascension was an arid island, buffeted by dry trade winds from southern Africa. Devoid of trees at the time of Darwin and Hooker's visits, the little rain that did fall quickly evaporated away.

(Pic ALAMY) There are other planes that land: at the moment the American planes still land and the MoD have a C17 once a month for their own people (Pic MoD) Ascension Island, home to around 800 ...