That’s partly because I can never come to Mimo without ordering one of Rios’ unusually interesting salads, whether it’s his variegated castelfranco radicchio with preserved lemon vinaigrette ...

I would have been sold on Mimo right there. But then came a hillock of fettucine hiding beneath mild pink folds of mortadella, the pasta tossed with green peas, pistachio, lemon and a bit of ricotta.