But for Hisato Hamada, the 42-year-old co-founder of Tokyo’s white-hot Wagyumafia restaurant brand ... raised and slaughtered in Japan’s Hyogo prefecture can today be called Kobe beef.

a renegade restaurant pop-up from Tokyo that’s dedicated to showing off Japanese Wagyu beef in all its glory. Lee persuaded the WAGYUMAFIA team (headed up by Chef Hisato Hamada, a self-taught ...