These crackly skinned, deep-fried burritos are a marvel of texture — notably crisp on the outside, and stuffed with soft, fragrant, saucy shredded beef on the inside.

from tacos and enchiladas to burritos and quesadillas. It's a manner of culinary categorization that applies to crispy tortilla-based migas and chilaquiles, too. After all, it's easy to understand ...